The spent primers jump out to every place but the cup. Floor, the case tray which causes its own issues if one gets in a casethe finished round tray etc. It is even more of a pain when it gets on the track preventing the primer holder coming back. Doing a search I see a lot of mentions of this problem, but they were related to the chute not releasing into the spent primer cup properly.
The machine is new, and this started occurring couple of hundred rounds into loading brass that still had primers. I have had a similar issue happen to me, the primer chute was opening and closing like it should, but primer were going all over the place too.
I played around with the length first and then changed the tip of the pin to look like a spitzer bullet tip shaped and polished and my problems stopped. I have also on my factory Dillon dies done the same adjustment and it help a lot too.
I also build some "wings" out of cardboard that I hot glued on the side of the primer chute when I load 44 magnum. That one caliber and the factory Dillon dies make me nuts!
This is usually the problem with s', replace the cotter pin with a straight section of a small paper clip. Great tips, this has bugged me for 30, rounds. I am sick of picking up spent primers off the floor!
The use of a piece of wire instead of the cotter pin has reduced the spent primers flying around drastically. Just once in a while one finds its way on to the floor, and I have not figured out why. However, changing from the cotter pin to a simple piece of wire was a big improvement. I had the same issues and found it was the primer chute sticking in the open position and not closing to catch the primer each time to deliver it to the cup.
I replaced the cotter pin with a piece of paper clip and then stuck a small round magnet on the moving part of the chute the back side and that provided enough weigh to make sure it closes every time to catch the spent primer. I have fixed the chute and polished the pin but at least 1 out of primers go flying. I think this maybe the brass and how the primer was installed originally.
Heh, I have out of flying at the moment. So, 1 out of a hundred would be an improvement. I have been fighting this same frustrating battle and got some improvement fiddling with the cotter pin but will try the paper clip fix tomorrow. If the spent primer is not making it into the catcher and is just flying at the moment of getting de-primed it's the de-priming pin. As soon as one fly's on mine I grab a small fine file ignition file from the days of points under the distributor cap and re-file the tip flat and then file the shaft part at the tip so it is smooth.
Easy on the pressure so you don't bend the pin. If you look at a new one you'll see it's flat.
Spent primer collection
If you have a new one to look at and don't want to file install the new one. I'll look at the de-priming pin. Here's my SD upgrade, plastic tray filled with oil. Catches all that nasty left over oxidized lead styphnate from punching the primers out.I use to have with trouble with knocking the entire spent primer cup off with my knees when the press was mounted to the bench, I then switched over to a strong mount to try to alleviate this problem but I then still had primers bouncing out of the newly mounted cup.
This upgrade creates a closed spent primer system so there is no way for the spent primers to exit the system and end up all over the floor or bench. This system uses a Funnel and bracket setup turned from billet aluminum and mounts below the Stock Return Bracket, as the case is deprimed the spent primer will fall through the platform directly into the funnel and then be passed through the tube down to a suitable container not supplied such as a soda bottle that sits under your bench.
This upgrade will work with either bench mounted presses or strong mounted presses and does away with the stock spent primer cups altogether, another bonus of this upgrade is you no longer have to worry about forgetting to empty the spent primer cup.
Orders only, International Buyers please use Ebay. Upgrade shown mounted with the Strong Mount Bracket. Upgrade Press Compatibility. Upgrade Includes.User Name Remember Me? Password Home Forums Advertise.
Likes Received While many of these companies have a somewhat useful upgrade or two, few of them can match the amount and usefulness of the upgrades I found at Inline Fabrication - Inline Fabrication As you can see from my first thread, I'm a firm believer in performing whatever easy modifications you can yourself, but in certain instances, you just need to throw money at the problem. I think that is exactly the case for a lot of this guy's offerings.
Here's a good link for a lot of Dillon Cheap Tricks, many of which I'll be incorporating as I get deeper into reloading I guarantee it! It also should be noted that as well as loading bench organization upgrades, they carry a lot of similar upgrades to other reloading machines, but my interest is tunnel-visioned on Dillon Quite a lot of VERY useful upgrades can be found there, including a superior design for the Roller Handle than the one offered by Dillon. Their design is not just on a straight handle, but one that has a 90 degree bend at the top, which helps prevent the need to stoop at the lower-end of the pull.
If you have limited bench area, and multiple presses, they sell a strongmount that has a Quickchange plate to change-out presses within a minute! They have quite a lot of very slick products! I personally will be ordering the ergo roller handle, the Skylight set, and the casefeed-bin primer tube holder What other aftermarket products have you Dillon reloaders been using? I like it much better now. The biggest improvement i made to my is just an LED light. Gives very good light straight down into the brass.
Great safety factor for me. LeftCoast likes this.
RL 550 Primer System parts
Originally Posted by dwg The only thing I would like is a quicker way to change primers. I try to change as little as possible, and stock up before changing calibers. Last edited by LeftCoast; at PM. My is pretty much stock. You Tube. The uses the tower that removes with two bolts. I think it is a pain because I started on a Lee classic turret.
Lee does things more simply, and has a primer dispenser in a one piece unit that hangs in a holder. Lee is a basic company that does everything basic. I would never use their progressive press, but like their dies, and single, or turret stage stuff. Changing primers is about 10 seconds with no adjusting. The Dillon primer tube is just more complicated setting up.
It works fine.Track Your Order Checkout search. About UniqueTek. A-Zoom Snap Caps. Bang and Clang Bullets. Buffer Technologies.
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Redding Reloading Equipment. VersaCarry Gen II. Product Catalog. Product Reviews. Coming Soon. Events Calender. Training Calendar. Free "Tips" Files. International Orders. Secure Shopping. Privacy Statement. Shipping Policies. Shopping Cart.View Full Version : Finally a good solution to the Dillon primer design faulth. I have had my many years and it has been back to Dillon and Dillon has sent me new parts several times, and the fact is it just never has worked right.
There were always two problems with it. The most annoying one is the slide would always start binding after a few hunderd rounds and I would have to stop, take it apart and clean it. The other problem was that the primer catcher would jam open and let the primers and filth from the primers fall all over the place. I have tried many differnt things to solve this without any real success. I tried putting a magnet on it to add weight, tweaking it, replacing the cotter pin pivot point with a 4 screw, etc.
I realized at some point that the primer slide hanging up was actually due to the other problem of the primer shute jamming open. When it jams open all the primer filth gets the slide drity and then it starts hanging.
Very annoying in a progressive press. So the thing is that solving the primer catcher shute problem solves both problems. This has been such a frustration to me, and I have spent hours and hours scouring the internet for solutions, finding that many others have the same frustration and trying those solutions that sounded promissing, but never with any real success, and being very jealous of those who proclaimed that their primer system never gave them any problems.
Then one day recently it came to me. What a simple solution! It works very well and only took literally 10 minutes to do with stuff I had on hand. I figured I had to post this and get it out there to help other fellow sufferers. It takes a small nail, a soldering iron, and a rubber band. You remove the schute, put two bends in a nail and solder to the schute as pictured, install the rubber band and problem solved.
You will need to grind the plating off the shoot where you want to solder so that the solder will stick, and cleaning up the nail will help as well. Oh, I long ago removed the clip that holds the newly positioned brass case in place, which really speeds up reloading, so I already had a natural hole for the rubber band to go through.
That is the hole where the screw was that held the clip in place. Clever design! My s are working fine now, but I will remember this trick should I need it in the futureWelcome visitor you can login or create an account. Show: 25 50 75 Product Compare 0. Dillon bearing kit. Not recommended for the older RL Put an end to powder spillage! This Dillon bearing k. Need a little more or less powder in that load?
Knowing how much to turn that bolt to get an incre. Dillon Steel Detent Ball. This is a steel detent ball that replaces the index detent ball under your shell plate to reduce "sn.
Put an end to powder spillage! This Dillon bearing kit includes a precision needle bearing an. Dillon RLB shellplate bearing kit. Please read the FAQ below and make sure you don't need to order the extra length bolt for thel. This is a delrin acetal resin detent ball that replaces the index detent ball under your shell plate.
Post Your Dillon Reloading Press Aftermarket Upgrade Products/Links Here!
Put an end to stuck cases with Ballistic Tools Case Lube. Our lube is. This is a camming pin bearing for the case feed cam and stage assembly that moves your cas. Please read the FAQ below and make sure you need to order this.
Provides full contact by locking. Replacement Carbide cutting blade for the Dillon Rapid Trim and Features a chip br. Replacement Bearing for Dillon Rapid Trim The toolhead is the final link between your dies and your press so it only makes sense that quality.
This is a reduced mass detent ball that replaces the index detent ball under your shell plate to red. Dillon and Hornady case feeders are great, except they often have trouble with the odd length of This tap handle is actually a key for winding a clock, and is the perfect size for the thread of our.
This is a 3 pack of delrin acetal resin detent ball that replaces the index detent ball under your s.
Dillon Die Lock Rings Pack of 9.Anyone who reloads on a Dillon XL press knows the issues with spent primers missing the stock spent primer cup and ending up all over the bench and floor. This upgrade creates a closed spent primer system so there is no way for the spent primers to exit the system and end up all over the floor or bench.
With this upgrade you also will never have to worry about the spent primer cup over flowing and jamming the system because you can see when it needs to be emptied. The new spent primer cup also will hold 3 times as much by volume over the stock cup. To achieve the full benefits of this upgrade it does require a Dillon Strong Mount and you will also have to drill 3 small holes in the side of your mount for the spent primer cup to clip to. If you do not have a strong mount or do not want to drill the holes in your mount please see my non-strong mount version.
This upgrade will only fit Dillon XL's with the metal stock cup mounting bracket and bolt spacing seen above. Older presses have different spent primer cups with plastic cup mounts then the newer presses.
Orders only, International Buyers please use Ebay. Upgrade Press Compatibility This upgrade will only fit Dillon XL's with the metal stock cup mounting bracket and bolt spacing seen above. Upgrade Includes.
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